Main event. Micro stakes. Middle position. Middle stakes. Multitable tournament. Narrow the field. New York back raise. No brainer. No flop no drop.

No Limit. Nut flush draw. Nut straight draw. Open limp. Open raise. Out of position. Peel a flop. Pocket pair. Poker face.

Pot bet. Pot control. Pot equity. Pot familial. Pot Limit. Pot odds. Pot size bet. Pot size raise. Prize pool. Probe bet. Push or fold.

Quinte flush. Quinte flush royale. Result oriented. Reverse float, reverse floating. Reverse hand history. Royal flush. Run something twice.

Runner - runner. Scared money. Scary board. Scary card. Scooper un pot. Set mining. Ship it. Or if you raise, it must be at least double the previous bet.

Each round is only over when all players have acted - either placed their chips, folded or checked around. Or bring their chip raise amount into play at the same time.

You can't place chips gradually - This is known as a string bet and would be considered a call. The player who bet on the river should reveal their hand first.

Note that the Texas Holdem layout includes three flop boxes, one turn box and one river card box on the felt table. You may also have a play section marked on the table where your bets are made, away from your stack.

A Texas Holdem cash game is played on a single table with 2 to 10 players. The goal in a cash game is to win as many chips as you can. A multi-table tournament will have a number of players divided into multiple tables with players on each table.

As players run out of chips and are eliminated, the number of tables reduces until the final table players. Play continues until heads up 2 players and then the final prize winner.

There are two 'blind' players after the button clockwise - Small and Big Blind. This is to induce more action from these players because they have the worst position.

Otherwise they'd never play! Texas Hold'em combines your two hole cards with the five community cards. If someone else bets first, they can raise, thus increasing the value of the pot by two bets.

Of course, if no other player chooses to open, the betting will be checked around and the play will have failed to elicit additional money for the pot.

Like a simple check, a failed check-raise provides other players an opportunity to view the next card or cards dealt without requiring the other players to commit more money to the pot.

A check-raise thus contains an element of risk because the check-raising player's advantage may deteriorate when new cards are revealed.

While it can be an important part of one's poker strategy, this play is not allowed by a house rule in some home games and certain small-stakes casino games.

It is also frequently not allowed in the game of California lowball. In older poker material and among stud and draw poker players, it is sometimes referred to as sandbagging.

Check-raises can also be used as an intimidation technique over the course of a game; a player who has frequently been check-raised may be less likely to attempt to steal the pot.

In the image below, you will see what your opponent is supposed to c-bet on the flop when he wants to stay unexploitable. Green -marked hands are suggested checks, and red -marked hands are suggest c-bets.

Green -marked hands are suggested calls vs the c-bet, red -marked hands are suggested check-raises and blue -marked hands are suggested folds. That is a lot if you ask me, and hugely differs from how people actually play Poker.

On a paired board like rainbow, we should check-raise for value on the flop with hands that are very strong 7x, full-houses , some hands that are likely to be ahead but will be in trouble on later streets T3, J3, A3 etc.

You should check-raise as a bluff when you have some equity 54o 8d9s. The reason why you would want to check-raise weak draws and some hands that have back-doors back-door flush for example is that you have a better chance of winning the pot playing them aggressively.

If you check-call those weak hands, very often you will have to give up the pot and fold at some point.

Now we know what hands to check-raise against players that c-bet with GTO-ish frequencies and sizes small on low-paired flops, but what if the opponent c-bets nearly every hand on such flops, and that with a big size?

How do we exploit that? Well, your opponent makes himself very vulnerable towards check-raises then, and I think that most players are very exploitable in those spots.

We should adjust accordingly and check-raise more 7x and 3x hands, and also check and then raise with most, if not all of our backdoors.

We can also mix in some pure non-equity bluffs ala T9o, T8o, Q9o etc. You should preferably block hands that can float your check-raise, for example, Qd9s that blocks some QdJd, or Ts9s that could float you reasonably.

We want to move on with continuing betting on blank runouts K, T, J or 9 etc. We benefit from having a small size for light value-bets and semi-good to good draws.

A small continuation-bet on the turn will look extremely strong as if you want to suck your opponent in , and this allows you to continue bluffing, even with small sizes.

You should continue betting the turn with small sizes with value-hands that block most of your opponents potential value-hands to suck him in 77 or 73s for example.

What can he hold? He will fold if you bet big. Mix it up! On the other hand, you should bet big with hands that are valuable but vulnerable, and with pure non-equity hands that benefit hugely from your opponents fold.

Same pre-flop ranges.